Welcome to Bhutan, Stanley!

Druk Air Flight KB123 landed at the Paro International Airport on Saturday, the 13th of March. Having been given the privilege to go through Customs as an official guest of the Ministry of Health, Stanley was one of the first to step off the plane and enter the Land of the Thunder Dragon. Silently expressing gratitude to the dasho ("noble man") who had signed off on his visa application just eight days prior, I was happy to welcome my big brother to the Kingdom of Bhutan!

Having lived in developing countries for many years himself, Stanley knew exactly what he could bring over to Bhutan to make me one very happy girl. My eyes widened as he pulled the items out of his suitcase I no longer take for granted ... Starbucks instant coffee, organic granola, dental floss, ziploc bags, and a plastic container with a secure lid!

Stanley and I enjoyed daily life in Thimphu together. We walked down to the river to shop at the Weekend Market for fresh vegetables, fruit, and handicrafts. Our afternoons were spent reading and writing at local coffeeshops or enjoying walks through the Himalayan Hills. At monasteries we had our questions about Buddhism answered by the monks in residence. We took my students out to a Western style restaurant for dinner (we ordered pizza; they ordered fried rice!) and Stanley answered several of their questions regarding the inclusion of Gross National Happiness in his International Peace Studies Master's Degree program at the International University of Japan. We explored Thimphu nightlife at the Om Bar and had a dinner party for mutual friends of friends (leave it to my brother to have friends all over the world!)

It was so great having his company here in Thimphu, and I also looked forward to travelling through Bhutan together. Stanley joined me on my trip to Punakha, where he was welcomed as a guest to the District Hospital and immediately given the opportunity to meet the administration and go on a tour. After duty, led by our new friends from the hospital, Phuentsho and Karma, we took a long walk through the peaceful valley. Across rivers and over suspension bridges we were surrounded by fields of rice paddies at the base of green hills. Monks of all ages crossed our paths, as at the junction of the Mu Chuu and Pu Chuu (male and female rivers) sits the grand Punakha Dzong, or the "Palace of Great Happiness". Stanley and I were invited into our friend Pheuntsho's home, where a delicious homemade Bhutanese meal was prepared for our lunch just prior to our departure.

We returned to our daily routine in Thimphu (actually, I skipped our trip to Bumthang, the holiest site in Bhutan ... given that Stanley got quite sick and could do no sightseeing, there's just not a whole to mention!). So back to Thimphu, where a few days rest and homemade meals brought back good health!

We were fortunate to be in Bhutan at the time of the annual Paro tsechu. I donned one of my best kiras, and 5 Bhutanese boys dressed Stanley in a gho at the stalls outside of the Weekend Market. Along with my friend and fellow HVO volunteer, Heather, we took a 1 hour taxi ride to Paro set to beats on tape of Celine Dion and Michael Jackson! Upon arrival to the festival, we joined locals wishing for blessings and tourists wishing for cultural lessons and colorful photos. Bhutanese dressed in elaborate costumes complete with masks told stories through dances in the outside courtyard of the dzong. The inner courtyard and sanctuary are often closed to foreigners, but my status as a hospital volunteer paid off as were immediately welcomed with utmost respect. Inside, a monk befriended Stanley and casually fixed every wrinkle that had formed in his gho. He then turned his attention to me, instructing me in how to better hold my kira when descending narrow, wobbly stairs. For a moment I was confused and perhaps even a little put off by a man telling me how to hold my skirt, but I quickly realized I was much less likely to trip when applying his technique. Stanley gently pointed out to me that this monk negotiates the uneven terrain in a skirt everyday!

For the first time in my life, I'm happy to say that I was able to translate for my very linguistically accomplished brother (“Ama, par chi tabgaymay?” which I hope translates from Dzongkha to English as: “Mother” (casually used for any woman) “Can I please take your picture?”) and I hope that I was able to host him just as well. As the Bhutanese would say, “I think he enjoyed his time in Bhutan.” Having family share this experience with me was invaluable (and logging onto Skype together we were able to share it even further with our sister, parents, and aunt!) Kadinche La Stanley! I had such a great time.